Wednesday, July 16, 2008

Rory MacLean and "Magic Bus"

magiccover

History shows the torch when we lurk in the heat and dust of the dark yesterdays, helping us see the scathes on the faces, bullet-holes on the window panes and blood stains on the walls. Heritage is what we develop surviving the stains of history. Its like a looking at a lotus flower bloomed on the water surface. The glory and beauty is visible from a distance, but none actually sees the roots deep immersed in the mud beneath.

Rory MacLean creates magic with words in this wonderful travellogue, guiding the reader through a different world that existed 30 years ago. Some samples are provided below, and I'm thankful to have the permission from Rory MacLean himself to reproduce part of the text.

In the sixties and seventies, hundreds of thousands of young Westerners took off for India, blazing the "hippie trail" from Istanbul to Kathmandu. This intrepid pioneers left behind their parents' world of postponed pleasure, guilt of Empire and the spectre of war. Aboard the weirdest procession of unroadworthy vehicles ever to rattle across the face of the earth, they reached for a new kind of  life, and because the first movement of people who travelled to be colonised than to colonise.

"The trail across Asia is narrow and there's  only one road, one way to go," wrote Douglas Brown in the conclusion to his 1971 guidebook. "When it broadens out in India, and you see the hundreds of cities marked in a very small area of the map, you will have at last the chance to go wherever you want, and find a place to rest and get into a way of life that will satisfy you. The one path has become many."

Those paths spin out from this room like the threads of a vast spider's web. In a thousand departure lounges, a fresh generation of Intrepids stands on the brink of the world.  Like them, I am a foreigner, an open hearted sole traveller, spiralling out from where I was born, curious for the world and taking nothing for granted: not belonging, not possessing, at home in my skin and reinventing myself at every border. Moving on.

That's our legacy from the sixties. Not simply 'this now life...this here life.' Not just the new expense of being. But living both in the moment and in the mind, stirring to understand -- and to express-- how it feels to be alive. The momentum of the sea marks off the days. Autumn makes way for winter. A bird nests under the eaves. The party people move on to Yangshuo, Saigon and Cairns. I stay behind in this packaged paradise watching jet streams criss-cross the azure sky.

This book is not just a travel book sharing MacLean's experiences. This is an experience in itself, a fruition of maclean's effort to relive the "hippie" life seeking nirvana, interacting with some of the original Intrepids himself. The brief glimpses of history and political background of the countries on the way (and also their religious and social spectra) are all in themselves MacLean's vivid attempts of reliving this experience. Yet, the reader never feels the heat and thrill of an investigative journey. "Magic Bus" thrives on MacLean's efforts to bring forth the life in each city he passes through as clear as possible, while trying not to be too verbose in his narration.

Saturday, December 15, 2007

Wrap around & Return






We had a memorable luncheon with a good friend, before our return journey.

Candle-Lit Dinner: A Memorable Evening





Bhils: The bow men of Rajasthan

The Bhils form an important group, which inhabits mainly the southern districts of Rajasthan and the surrounding regions of Udaipur and Chittaurgarh. The generic term, which describes their tribe apparently, derives its name from bil, meaning bow, which describes their original talent and strength.

History

History corroborates the legends, which tells about their superiority in archery. From the Mahabharata emerges Eklavya, a Bhil who surpassed the skill of Arjuna only to be repressed by the command of his guru. The Ramayana tells of Vail, the Bhil bandit who reformed with the blessings of the Saraswati, the goddess of learning, to become Valmiki, the renowned poet sage.

Even today, the accepted head of all the Rajput clan of Rajasthan, the Maharana of Udaipur is crowned by anointing his forehead with blood drawn from the palm of a Bhil chieftain, affirming the alliance and loyalty of his tribe.

The Bhils gained in strength by intermingling with rebellious, outcast Rajputs who sought shelter with them. Rajput rulers came to value the guerilla tactics of the Bhils, particularly since they were at ease in the hilly terrain. Various fierce invasions could not be repelled without their active support. Leading a camouflaged existence, the Bhils were unable to update their material techniques and this became the main cause of their relegation to the past where they stood as brave symbol rather than a real threat to an enemy.

For us these tribal people were a perceived threat as well as laughing stock. Though everyone was more than a little afraid in his/her mind while crossing the Bhil locality, jokes, overt discussions and mutual leg-pullings over Bhils entertained us and allowed us to exercise our creativity. It's only due to these excessive discussions and laughter, that we unknowingly traversed the badly terrained Udaipur-Mount Abu highway.

Mount Abu: Surroundings




Mount Abu: A Hilly Resort of Rajasthan

The Aravalli hills stretching from Delhi to Gujarat reach their highest point here in a mountain, atop which is a picturesque plateau. This is Abu in Sirohi district, a lush green summer resort and the only hill station in Rajasthan. Mount Abu has a somewhat steep incline, with ravines cut into its sides, filled with trees, bushes and beautiful birds. It is a detached hill, and on the plateau on the summit are granite rocks of fantastic shapes, the space between them covered with greenery. The Hill of Wisdom, The Saint's Pinnacle, The Rajput Olympus, the Mon Capitalia of Pliny. Yes all these are titles for just one place – Mount Abu.

Quick bytes
Altitude : 1,220 meters (4,003 feet)
Distance from Udaipur : 185km (115 miles)
Population : 17,000
Area : 25 sq. Km
Best time to visit : March-June and September-November.

Nehru Park, Fateh Sagar Lake





Nehru Park, Fateh Sagar Lake

As the name suggests this Park has indeed been named after the first Prime Minister of India, Jawaharlal Nehru. The Park was inaugurated on the birth anniversary of Nehru on 14th November 1967. It is an oval shaped island and lies humbly on the Fateh Sagar Lake. The garden overlooks the ancient Moti Mahal of Rana Pratap. This island garden is a real delight to the eyes, sitting softly on the calm waters of the Lake and amidst the enchanting hills surrounding it. The Park covers a huge area of about 41 acres with its flower gardens and a lily pond.

Haldighati Museum & Surroundings





Ekling mandir: Forbidden photos!





Chetak Memorial: Haldighati

Chetak Memorial: Haldighati

Haldighati, is a small village in the Aravalli Hills about 44 km north of Udaipur and about 1,839 m. above sea level. Beyond this is Haldighati Pass, a narrow defile almost a kilometre in length, running South to the Northeast and finally ending in a broad plain. An interesting geographical feature of the pass is its soft yellow soil, which when crumbled resembles the turmeric powder (haldi), which gives the place its name. It was here that the famous Battle of Haldighati was fought on June 18, 1576 between Maharana PRATAP SINGH of Mewar and the Imperial army of Emperor Akbar of Delhi.

Battle of Haldighati (June 18, 1576), a four-hour confrontation between the Imperial forces of Mughal Emperor AKBAR and Maharana PRATAP SINGH I (1572-1597) of Mewar.

Chetak, the faithful stallion of the Maharana Pratap Singh saved his master's life, despite being brutally injured in the battle. In three legs, it carried it's beloved master to a safer location before it laid down itself and succumbed to injuries.

1Temple=108 temples

Tuesday, December 11, 2007

Ek Ling Mandir

Lord Shiva is known to have a hundred names. One hunderd and eight in all. 108 is also the number of Upanishads written. Eklingji has been the deity of the royal Mewar family since the time of Bappa Rawal, founder of the Mewar dynasty. Ek means 'one' while ling means 'lingum or the life giving phallic symbol of Lord Shiva'. The patron deity of the Mewar clan is considered the actual ruler of the region while the kings are merely the Dewan (or the Prime Minister) of this God of Mewar, the same way Swami Padmanabha (Lord Maha Vishnu) is for the Travancore royalty in Kerala.

The temple was first built in the year 728AD, however, subsequent changes and renovation work was done later as well. The temple that stands today is not the original structure but the one built on the site of ancient temple. Infact, as later as in the 15th and 16th century, Maharana Raimal too rebuilt and renovated this temple.

The temple complex is located at the banks of Indersagar Lake. Within the walls of the Eklingji Temple, there are 108 shrines built of marble and sandstone. The main shrine has a double storeyed covered platform, a hall with a number of pillars and a flat pyramidal roof with circular knobs. In this main shrine is a four faced black marble statue of Lord Eklingji with Brahma facing west, Vishnu facing north, Shiva facing south and Surya facing east.

Outside the temple are the statues of Nandi, Shiva's bull and Bappa Rawal. Bappa Rawal is shown facing Nandi with his hands clasped. There is another statue of Nandi in silver in the hall of the temple.

Though the temple is mainly dedicated to Lord Shiva, yet other deities are worshipped here as well. Few of the prominent among these are Parvati, Ganesha, Ganga, Kartikeya, Yamuna and Saraswati. Smaller temples dedicated to Amba Mata and Kalka Mata can also be found in the temple complex.

Friday, November 30, 2007

Apni Dhani

A thematic village restaurant in Udaipur, Apni Dhani has it's own charm. Apart from the culinary delights of a restaurant, Apni Dhani tends to highlight the colourful life of the people in rural
Rajasthan. There are various shows arranged to delight the public, but it serves as a window to look at the culture of Rajasthan.

Lake Pichchola

Lake Pichola with exceptional scenic beauty is surrounded by hills, embankments, bathing ghats, shrines and palaces. The lake was enlarged by Maharana Udai Singh II after he founded the
city. He built a masonry dam, known as the 'Badi Pal', and the vast lake is nearly 5km in length and three km wide. The magnificence of the lake is enhanced by beautiful Lake Palaces, Jag Niwas and the Jag Mandir.

Saheliyon ki Baadi


I couldn't find much information about this beautiful garden, which displays its thirst for renovation and prompt restoration. In the outskirts of city, a few kilometers through the banks of the Fateh Sagar, our auto driver took us to this garden. If his stories were to be taken into face value, this garden was designed for the unique purpose of providing a rain-like shower for the princess (he told me the name, but it's now hard to recollect), a a gift from her father Rana Sangram Singh II, who did not want his daughter to be deprived of the pleasure of having a rain shower, in an arid city. Though the driver told us that the shower works purely on gravitational principles and manual operations, I couldn't find a suitable reason to believe it--neither by the way it was designed nor by the altitude it maintains vis-a-vis the level of the mighty Fateh Sagar.

Wednesday, November 21, 2007

City Palace: More images





City Palace



The City Palace




Largest palace complex in Rajasthan, the City Palace of Udaipur stands tall in glory and honour bearing testimony to the tumultous history it as witnessed. The construction of this great palace consummated a whopping 300+ years. Initially, Maharana Udai Singh built this superb wonder, but the present form of the Palace is the result of subsequent additions by his successors. City Palace boasts of the wonderful blend of Medieval, European and Chinese Architecture.

City Palace comprises 11 wonderful palaces, which were built by different rulers still they resemble each other. With the sheer glimpse of unique paintings, antique furniture and exquisite glass mirror & ornamental tiles work of these palaces, you will get amazed. Manak Mahal (Ruby Palace) has figures of crystal and porcelain. However, Bhim Vilas flaunts a fabulous collection of miniature paintings depicting the real life stories of Radha-Krishna.

The 'Krishna Vilas' is known for the noteworthy album of miniature paintings portraying royal processions, festivals and games of the Maharanas. Moti Mahal (Pearl Palace) is celebrated for its lavish decor while Sheesh Mahal (Palace of mirrors) is known for its breathtaking mirror work. 'Chini Chitrashala' is renowned for its Chinese and Dutch ornamental tiles. 'Dilkusha Mahal' (Palace of Joy) is known for the murals and wall paintings.

Bada Mahal is the exotic garden palace that stands erect on a 90 feet high natural rock formation. Rang Bhawan is the palace that used to contain royal treasure. There are temples of Lord Krishna, Meera Bai and Shiva, located right to the 'Rang Bhawan'. 'Mor Chowk' has exceptional glass mosaics of peacocks, set in the walls presenting the three seasons of summer, winter and monsoon. 'Laxmi Vilas Chowk' is an art gallery with a distinctive collection of Mewar paintings. City Palace has amazing interiors with delicate mirror-work, marble work, murals, wall paintings, silver work, inlay work and surplus of colored glass. The exquisite work of City Palace cannot be bounded in words, so one must visit this palace to capture the real picture of it.